Close your right fist, with your thumb over your fingers. Now point your index finger and you have an almost perfect representation of the island of Corsica – essentially a mountain range jutting out of the Mediterranean, whose highest peaks remain snow-capped well into the spring.
Its people are proud of their island: many consider themselves to be Corsican first and (reluctantly) French second, even though the island’s most famous son, Napoleon Bonaparte, became emperor of France! You’ll see graffiti – usually in Corsican, which is closer to Italian than it is to French – calling for independence in the most unexpected places.
The Corsican flag (known locally as A bandera testa mora) is everywhere: a black profile facing left with a white bandana knotted at the back. Why? Nobody is really sure and there are many legends, but the latest academic hypothesis is that the head belonged to Black Egyptian Christian martyr Saint Maurice d’Aguane, whose Latin name Mauritius led to confusion that this was the head of a Moor.
This stunning island has few museums, art galleries, cinemas or theaters. Instead, Corsica is a destination for those who love outdoor activities: hiking, swimming, sailing, kayaking, diving and great food at the end of it all.
Traditional Corsican food is more mountain than maritime. As chestnut trees and wild pigs abound, you’ll find both these ingredients in many a hearty Corsican dish such as wild boar stew or the different varieties of cold meats such as figatellu.
You’ll also find chestnuts in many forms in Corsican deserts and pastries. Cheese runs the gamut from mild (brocciu which is the basis for a variety of both savory and sweet dishes) to extremely strong (casgiu merzu or rotten cheese). And you can wash it all down with one of the local wines, which are closer in taste to Italian wines than continental French ones.
The Corsican flag (known locally as A bandera testa mora) is everywhere: a black profile facing left with a white bandana knotted at the back. Why? Nobody is really sure and there are many legends, but the latest academic hypothesis is that the head belonged to Black Egyptian Christian martyr Saint Maurice d’Aguane, whose Latin name Mauritius led to confusion that this was the head of a Moor.
This stunning island has few museums, art galleries, cinemas or theaters. Instead, Corsica is a destination for those who love outdoor activities: hiking, swimming, sailing, kayaking, diving and great food at the end of it all.
Traditional Corsican food is more mountain than maritime. As chestnut trees and wild pigs abound, you’ll find both these ingredients in many a hearty Corsican dish such as wild boar stew or the different varieties of cold meats such as figatellu.
You’ll also find chestnuts in many forms in Corsican deserts and pastries. Cheese runs the gamut from mild (brocciu which is the basis for a variety of both savory and sweet dishes) to extremely strong (casgiu merzu or rotten cheese). And you can wash it all down with one of the local wines, which are closer in taste to Italian wines than continental French ones.
Corsica is the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean and one of the 18 regions of France. A single chain of mountains makes up two-thirds of the island. As of January 2024, it had a population of 355,528.
The regional capital is Ajaccio. Corsican autonomy is more extensive than in other regional collectivities of France and the Corsican Assembly is permitted to exercise limited executive powers.
Corsica was ruled by the Republic of Genoa from 1284 to 1755, when it seceded to become a self-proclaimed, Italian-speaking Republic. In 1768, Genoa officially ceded it to Louis XV of France as part of a pledge for the debts incurred after enlisting French military help in suppressing the Corsican revolt; as a result, France annexed the island in 1769.
The future Emperor of the French, Napoleon Bonaparte, was a native Corsican, born that same year in Ajaccio: his ancestral home, Maison Bonaparte, is now a visitor attraction and museum. Because of Corsica's historical ties to Tuscany, the island has retained many Italian cultural elements, and many Corsican surnames are rooted in the Italian peninsula.
French is the official and most widely spoken language on the island though Corsican, the native Italo-Dalmatian language, is recognized as one of France's regional languages.
There is considerable birdlife in Corsic and it has abundant reptile and amphibians, including the protected Hermann's tortoise. The Corsican red deer was re-introduced after it became extinct due to overhunting.
Around every corner is another jaw-dropping landscape: a stone chapel perched atop a small hill with sheep-studded fields at its feet and snow-capped mountains behind, or a steep ravine of pink granite with a fast-running river at the bottom. Don’t forget to bring your camera.
The regional capital is Ajaccio. Corsican autonomy is more extensive than in other regional collectivities of France and the Corsican Assembly is permitted to exercise limited executive powers.
Corsica was ruled by the Republic of Genoa from 1284 to 1755, when it seceded to become a self-proclaimed, Italian-speaking Republic. In 1768, Genoa officially ceded it to Louis XV of France as part of a pledge for the debts incurred after enlisting French military help in suppressing the Corsican revolt; as a result, France annexed the island in 1769.
The future Emperor of the French, Napoleon Bonaparte, was a native Corsican, born that same year in Ajaccio: his ancestral home, Maison Bonaparte, is now a visitor attraction and museum. Because of Corsica's historical ties to Tuscany, the island has retained many Italian cultural elements, and many Corsican surnames are rooted in the Italian peninsula.
French is the official and most widely spoken language on the island though Corsican, the native Italo-Dalmatian language, is recognized as one of France's regional languages.
There is considerable birdlife in Corsic and it has abundant reptile and amphibians, including the protected Hermann's tortoise. The Corsican red deer was re-introduced after it became extinct due to overhunting.
Around every corner is another jaw-dropping landscape: a stone chapel perched atop a small hill with sheep-studded fields at its feet and snow-capped mountains behind, or a steep ravine of pink granite with a fast-running river at the bottom. Don’t forget to bring your camera.
Drive from Francardo to Porto
The narrow D84 road from Francardo to Porto is only 78.6km (48.8 miles) long but driving it non-stop would take two hours – "twisty" doesn’t even begin to describe it.
But this road is so spectacular that you’ll make multiple stops, not only to admire the landscape of giant granite fingers, deep gorges, Alpine meadows and lakes but also because you’ll be competing for road space with Corsica’s wild black pigs, cows and other vehicles, particularly in the summer months.
The narrow D84 road from Francardo to Porto is only 78.6km (48.8 miles) long but driving it non-stop would take two hours – "twisty" doesn’t even begin to describe it.
But this road is so spectacular that you’ll make multiple stops, not only to admire the landscape of giant granite fingers, deep gorges, Alpine meadows and lakes but also because you’ll be competing for road space with Corsica’s wild black pigs, cows and other vehicles, particularly in the summer months.
Find Bastia’s historic heart
Bastia, Corsica’s economic capital, tends to get overlooked by tourists. And that’s a shame because it's a town designed for its 52,000 inhabitants rather than tourists and has plenty to keep you entertained for at least a day.
Terra Vecchia, the historic heart of the city, brackets the old port. Its landmark building is the church of Saint John the Baptist, the biggest in Corsica and built in the 1600s, although the facade and identical bell towers on either side were added in the 1860s. This part of town is small, so don’t hesitate to turn into the narrow streets to explore and wonder how some of the grey-and-beige crumbling buildings that crowd in on each other are still standing. Look for the small niches in the facades that hold a painted statue of a saint and question the safety of a tangle of electrical wires as you make your way past the vast church and onto the southern side, then up the beautiful imperial staircase known as the Falata à a Gabella into the Terra Nova (there’s also a lift about 150m/492ft beyond the staircase if you prefer).
Discover seven centuries of island history
The upper part of the city of Bastia, or Terra Nova, with its straight streets and well-kept coloured facades, clusters around the Genoese citadel or bastiglia which is where the town got its name. The Governors’ Palace, built in 1530, hosts the lovely city museum covering seven centuries of the city and the island’s history. There’s enough here to keep you busy for about two hours. On a clear day in the terraced gardens, you can see the Italian island of Elba 57km (35 miles) away where Napoleon spent his first exile, and the old port and the city spread out below you like a map.
Bastia, Corsica’s economic capital, tends to get overlooked by tourists. And that’s a shame because it's a town designed for its 52,000 inhabitants rather than tourists and has plenty to keep you entertained for at least a day.
Terra Vecchia, the historic heart of the city, brackets the old port. Its landmark building is the church of Saint John the Baptist, the biggest in Corsica and built in the 1600s, although the facade and identical bell towers on either side were added in the 1860s. This part of town is small, so don’t hesitate to turn into the narrow streets to explore and wonder how some of the grey-and-beige crumbling buildings that crowd in on each other are still standing. Look for the small niches in the facades that hold a painted statue of a saint and question the safety of a tangle of electrical wires as you make your way past the vast church and onto the southern side, then up the beautiful imperial staircase known as the Falata à a Gabella into the Terra Nova (there’s also a lift about 150m/492ft beyond the staircase if you prefer).
Discover seven centuries of island history
The upper part of the city of Bastia, or Terra Nova, with its straight streets and well-kept coloured facades, clusters around the Genoese citadel or bastiglia which is where the town got its name. The Governors’ Palace, built in 1530, hosts the lovely city museum covering seven centuries of the city and the island’s history. There’s enough here to keep you busy for about two hours. On a clear day in the terraced gardens, you can see the Italian island of Elba 57km (35 miles) away where Napoleon spent his first exile, and the old port and the city spread out below you like a map.
Don’t miss Les Calanques de Piana
These red-and-pink calanques (narrow, steep-sided granite valleys or inlets) are part of a Unesco World Heritage site on the west coast between Calvi and Ajaccio and are unmissable. The best approach is from Piana. As you drive carefully north along the narrow road winding its way through rocks and scrub bushes, the rocks will start getting bigger, fashioned into fantastic shapes that every person interprets in their own way: where one will see a lion, another will see a human or yet another a strange gargoyle. You’ll get tantalizing glimpses of the sea far below. In the summer the road gets quite busy, so don’t stop on a bend to admire the view.
These red-and-pink calanques (narrow, steep-sided granite valleys or inlets) are part of a Unesco World Heritage site on the west coast between Calvi and Ajaccio and are unmissable. The best approach is from Piana. As you drive carefully north along the narrow road winding its way through rocks and scrub bushes, the rocks will start getting bigger, fashioned into fantastic shapes that every person interprets in their own way: where one will see a lion, another will see a human or yet another a strange gargoyle. You’ll get tantalizing glimpses of the sea far below. In the summer the road gets quite busy, so don’t stop on a bend to admire the view.
Explore the ancient churches of Cargèse
This village, south of Porto, is home to one of Corsica’s most beautiful churches, which also happens to be the only Greek Orthodox church on the island. Saint Spyridon was built by the Greek descendants of the 600 who fled the Ottomans in the 17th century and settled in this coastal village.
The community originally built a small church but by the mid-19th century, they'd outgrown their original place of worship and began the construction of Saint Spyridon in a neo-gothic style. In accordance with Byzantine rite, the altar is hidden from the nave by a wooden partition (an iconostasis). This one is beautifully decorated with icons (some of which were brought by the first Greek inhabitants and date back to the 13th century) of saints and angels on a gold background. The church walls are covered with frescoes and the ceiling is painted dark blue dotted with gold stars – all illuminated by several large, multi-layered brass chandeliers. What makes Cargèse remarkable is that just across a small gully from Saint Spyridon is the pale yellow facade of the neo-Baroque Roman Catholic church, the Assumption, built in the 1800s. The richly-decorated, colourful interior, recently restored, is also neo-Baroque.
This village, south of Porto, is home to one of Corsica’s most beautiful churches, which also happens to be the only Greek Orthodox church on the island. Saint Spyridon was built by the Greek descendants of the 600 who fled the Ottomans in the 17th century and settled in this coastal village.
The community originally built a small church but by the mid-19th century, they'd outgrown their original place of worship and began the construction of Saint Spyridon in a neo-gothic style. In accordance with Byzantine rite, the altar is hidden from the nave by a wooden partition (an iconostasis). This one is beautifully decorated with icons (some of which were brought by the first Greek inhabitants and date back to the 13th century) of saints and angels on a gold background. The church walls are covered with frescoes and the ceiling is painted dark blue dotted with gold stars – all illuminated by several large, multi-layered brass chandeliers. What makes Cargèse remarkable is that just across a small gully from Saint Spyridon is the pale yellow facade of the neo-Baroque Roman Catholic church, the Assumption, built in the 1800s. The richly-decorated, colourful interior, recently restored, is also neo-Baroque.
Interior Palais Fesch
Get to know Napoleon in Ajaccio
You cannot escape Napoleon Bonaparte in his birthplace. Ajaccio is the capital of Corsica because he decided it should be, switching it from Bastia in 1811. He’s everywhere, in street names and museums and watching mournfully over the pétanques players from atop his pedestal in the Place d’Austerlitz.
The Palais Fesch, so named as it exhibits the art collection of Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Napoleon’s maternal uncle, is the island’s major art museum. Fesch began his collection whilst accompanying his nephew on the two-week Italian campaign in 1796. By the time he died in 1839, he had accumulated more than 16,000 works of art. They’re not all on show but the permanent exhibition has some exceptional works by Renaissance artists such as Bellini, Botticelli, Titian and Veronese, as well as 17th-century artists Poussin and Van Dyck.
Napoleon’s parents, Charles and Letizia Bonaparte, are buried in the imperial chapel in the right wing of the palace.
A five-minute walk from the art museum will take you to Maison Bonaparte, where Napoleon was born on 15 August 1769 but only resided in until he was nine years old. The house has undergone multiple changes since then and only became a museum in 1967.
You cannot escape Napoleon Bonaparte in his birthplace. Ajaccio is the capital of Corsica because he decided it should be, switching it from Bastia in 1811. He’s everywhere, in street names and museums and watching mournfully over the pétanques players from atop his pedestal in the Place d’Austerlitz.
The Palais Fesch, so named as it exhibits the art collection of Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Napoleon’s maternal uncle, is the island’s major art museum. Fesch began his collection whilst accompanying his nephew on the two-week Italian campaign in 1796. By the time he died in 1839, he had accumulated more than 16,000 works of art. They’re not all on show but the permanent exhibition has some exceptional works by Renaissance artists such as Bellini, Botticelli, Titian and Veronese, as well as 17th-century artists Poussin and Van Dyck.
Napoleon’s parents, Charles and Letizia Bonaparte, are buried in the imperial chapel in the right wing of the palace.
A five-minute walk from the art museum will take you to Maison Bonaparte, where Napoleon was born on 15 August 1769 but only resided in until he was nine years old. The house has undergone multiple changes since then and only became a museum in 1967.
View the beauty of Bonifacio from
the sea.
Bonifacio is not only the oldest town in Corsica (founded in about 830 CE), it's also the most spectacular. Perched atop 100m-high, layered white limestone and sandstone cliffs, it boasts phenomenal views south across to Sardinia (only 13km/8 miles away).
For first-time visitors the element of surprise is huge – when you arrive by road, all you can see of Bonifacio are enormous, imposing ramparts and fortifications on a hill to the west of a 1.5km sea inlet. The only way to view the imposing cliffs, and the town's tall houses tethered at the very edge of the escarpments, is from the sea – boat tours depart regularly from the port at the end of the inlet.
When you return from your maritime expedition, wind your way past the restaurants, cafés and souvenir shops that line the port and go up the Rastello ramp ending at the foot of the citadel. There you'll find the much-photographed, white, roofless Saint Roch chapel with its single bell cut out against the blue of the Mediterranean Sea, with Sardinia glistening on the horizon.
You can then turn into the old town through the labyrinth of tight, paved streets lined with ancient, narrow six- or seven-story buildings nestled against each other. Note the aqueducts above the streets connecting the houses and look out for the stone plaque on n°7 rue des Deux Empereurs detailing that Napoleon Bonaparte (of course, who else?!) lived there from 22 January to 3 March 1793 and that it belonged to his ancestors until May 1721.
the sea.
Bonifacio is not only the oldest town in Corsica (founded in about 830 CE), it's also the most spectacular. Perched atop 100m-high, layered white limestone and sandstone cliffs, it boasts phenomenal views south across to Sardinia (only 13km/8 miles away).
For first-time visitors the element of surprise is huge – when you arrive by road, all you can see of Bonifacio are enormous, imposing ramparts and fortifications on a hill to the west of a 1.5km sea inlet. The only way to view the imposing cliffs, and the town's tall houses tethered at the very edge of the escarpments, is from the sea – boat tours depart regularly from the port at the end of the inlet.
When you return from your maritime expedition, wind your way past the restaurants, cafés and souvenir shops that line the port and go up the Rastello ramp ending at the foot of the citadel. There you'll find the much-photographed, white, roofless Saint Roch chapel with its single bell cut out against the blue of the Mediterranean Sea, with Sardinia glistening on the horizon.
You can then turn into the old town through the labyrinth of tight, paved streets lined with ancient, narrow six- or seven-story buildings nestled against each other. Note the aqueducts above the streets connecting the houses and look out for the stone plaque on n°7 rue des Deux Empereurs detailing that Napoleon Bonaparte (of course, who else?!) lived there from 22 January to 3 March 1793 and that it belonged to his ancestors until May 1721.
